Jaimarketplace

Tawau Drift Challenge Round 1, April 2011

2011-05-06T00:46:00.000-07:00

[Please visit www.driftrevolution.blogspot.com for more info on Drift Revolution and Tawau activities]

Tawau Drift Challenge Round 1, April 2011

Tawau Drift Challenge 2011, Round 1 organized by Upgrade Automart had been super successful n my gratitude to the below:

1) Hap Seng Properties & Development S/B

2) D1 Tawau DC

3) Ministry of Youth and Sports

4) LUCAS OIL

5) WORKS Engineering

6) Q8 Oils

7) Yoong Hwa Auto Sports

8) Jai and Eddy Drift Revolution

9) All invitees, participants and support from all who are directly and indirectly involved

Video (Free practice session)

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1698979275741&comments

Day 1 (Opening ceremony, gathering and parade of over 40 motorsports and car clubs from Tawau)

Opening Ceremony

Sound Blast powered Bicycle Club from Tawau (Sakodes Club)...super loud sound system even for a bicycle!

Scooters...

Tawau Motocross Club

Contestants lineup

Newspaper coverage

Halim Ahmad a.k.a Lim Chai performing Rodeo Drift!!

Fadhlan studying the track..

Our judge stand....

Ramai orang woo...!!

Some incident during qualifying..Yuri's wheel came off when he accidentally over clipped the rear clipping :)

Small collision between Rudi Millen (AE70) and Fadlan (KE35) during Best 16 Battle

Incident with NottyEddy..fire extinguisher exploded in the car..while Eddy is drifting it! hehehe

Habes satu kereta fadhlan filled with ABC powder!

Lesson learnt...don't buy cheap fire extinguishers!

Ardie of D1 KK

My favourite Ride..

Contestants preparing for Qualifying session

Tony Wong from D1KK...focusing on his team performance during qualifying..

Backbone of D1TWU...TehJinShoon

Unfortunate for TehJinShoon (1JZ powered Toyota Corona)...he can't continue his battle due to engine issues. I'm sure he will come back stronger in the next round for sure!

Tsuiso action..Desmond (D1KK) VS FZ (D1TWU) in Best 4 Battle

Tsuiso Result

The champions...from left (Yuri and FZ of D1TWU, Ah Hing and Desmond of D1KK)

Look at the crowd yo!

Beginner Drift Challenge Winners

3rd Place (Mr Halim 'Rodeo Master', D1 TWU)

2nd Place (Mr. Ronny, D1TWU)

1st Place (Ah Yuen, D1TWU)...look at the Prize...i loike!

Tawau Drift Challenge Round 1 (Expert Category) Winners

4th Place (Mr. Yuri, D1TWU, 2JZ powered Corona TT141)

3rd Place (Mr. Desmond, D1KK, 4AGZE powered AE86)

2nd Place (FZ, D1TWU, SR20det powered Cefiro A31)

Champion (Ah Hing, D1KK, 4AGE powered AE86)

Token of appreciation from Upgrade Automart...Thanks to Teh & Jack!

D1 Tawau Drift Club!

Federal Tires

Baru nak lunch...haha..after the event ended..

Full coverage coming soon..

Onward Motorsports Super Drift Spec BLUEBIRD 910 SSS

2011-05-03T02:53:00.001-07:00

Introducing....my precious ride...

Onward Motorsports Super Drift Spec BLUEBIRD 910 SSS

My Bluebird 910 Drifting Vids.... (More competition vids..coming soon..)

2010 Vids
Drift practice at Mardi serdang using NottyEddy's Bluebird 910
Drift practice at Mardi 2

KE70 SR20de Track Testing...Nov 2010, Putrajaya (Driver: Jai Bluebird)
Front View 1
Front View 2
Side View

Skyline R34 Track Testing ...Nov 2010, Putrajaya (Driver: Jai Bluebird)

(More vids coming soon when my new drift machines siap :)....)

2007 to 2009 Vids
Video1: Drift practice..
Video2: Tsuiso practice with my buddy Lijet with his monster Silvia S14
Video3: Drift practice..
Video4: 3rd Gear Roundabout drift during rain.. :)
Video5: 3rd Gear Roundabout drift during rain..(In car cam)

Driver: Jai (aka Jai 910, Jai Bluebird)

Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Current ride: OMS Super Drift Spec Bluebird 910 SSS powered with SR20det S14 with VTC engine

Sponsor: Maxoil, VTEN Oil, OMS, Aseong’s JDM Autoworks, Za Ekzos Race Fabrication, Jep Racing, Jaimarketplace

Specifications:

Chassis & Handling parts: Za Ekzos Full Spotweld & chassis strengthening, Za Ekzos custom 6point rollcage, Za Ekzos custom front strutbar, Nismo lightweight rear antirollbar, Cusco front antirollbar, KTS adjustable castor rod/camber arm/tension rod/toe rod, Asahi tie rod ends, Silvia S14 rear sub assembly, Cusco front suspension, Zeal rear suspension, Nismo engine and transmission mounts, Aseong’s custom aluminium under carriage engine cover

Drivetrain: Nismo 2way LSD, stock 5speed front gearbox, Exedy Racing clutch, Nismo lightweight flywheel,

Cooling System: GTR clutch fan, GTR intercooler, SARD Low temp thermostat

Fuel System: Aluminium fuel surgetank, custom aluminium fuel tank, OMS custom double entry fuel rail, SARD fuel press regulator, Power Enterprise 850cc injectors

Lubrication System: OMS custom high flow oil pump upgrade, Greddy oil cooler with Earls steel braided hoses

Engine- Cyl Head & Valvetrain: Tomei Poncams 256, Tomei 1.2mm cyl head gasket, Tomei RAS, Tomei Type A valvesprings, BC titanium retainers, Stage 3 cyl head port & polish, ARP cyl head stud, Works adj cam sprockets

Engine-Cyl Block & Cranktrain: HKS 87mm forged pistons, Eagle forged con rods, ARP main stud, OMS fully balanced engine

Intake & Exhaust System: 60mm throttle body, Thailand BOV, Thailand 40mm wastegate, GT 2871r dual ball bearing turbo, stock exh manifold, Drifthouse 3” downpipe, Za Ekzos 3” exh pipe from front to back, 3” Kakimoto rear muffler

Electronics: Apexi Power FC, PS Powersport Boost Controller, PS Powersport Brisk Spark Energizer II, Sard fuel press/EGT/boost meter, Apexi Oil press meter, Omori oil temp meter

Interior, Exterior & Wheels: Sparco EVO driver seat, Subaru Impreza passenger seat, CA (Cap Ayam) rally style deep dish steering, CA big & round gear knob, Soso Bodyworks wide wheel arches, 1.5” spacer front & rear, Skyline R31 front bumper, 17” Manaray racing rims, 17” Weds rims

Performance/Dyno Result: Max boost 1.5bar, rev limit = 8500rpm, RWHP = haven't got the chance to dyno it yet..estimated around 370 to 400rwhp at 1.4bar of boost…

Drift Shots:

My 1st day drifting...3pm..Sept 2007

1st time drifting at Kg Gajah track

George Fury NISMO Bluebird 910 Touring Car

Old times...drifting at PD Gokart track..pic taken by Ariff Johanis Drift Master

FX Open Drift Challenge 2009

UITM Free run Feb 2009

Drift practice with my sifu..Lijet powah!!

UIA speed gala event..2008

Tsuiso battle with my sifu...Lok Sifu

Other photos:

Early stage of car preparation..

Tomei assembly paste..emm..nyam..nyam...heheh

My cat..

Call of Duty (Modern Warfare) Multiplayer

2011-03-03T17:29:00.001-08:00

Had a blast nite yesterday playing COD multiplayer with my buddies. Last time we played the normal Team Deathmatch..but now..everyone's fascinated about playing Free for All where everyone fight for themselves. This type of gameplay is full of adrenalin rush, fast paced and need a really quick reflects..can't let your guard down even for a second or you'll be shot haha..

Last nite i use '.' as my nickname..tested new weapon selection (the AK and RPD) and perk selection..i was totally unbeatable and indestructible yesterday (apparently when playing with my buddies..i'm sure if i played in open server..there will be a lot of damn good players out there)..it was a really good fun though!

below are some screenshots of my Free for All match results..

The favourite map for Free for All match..'Killhouse'

Another favourite map..'Shipment'...really really small map..if you spawn in front of an enemy..he can easily knife you down :)

Big Vapor (EGO)

2011-02-28T17:34:00.000-08:00

Yup..in my effort to quit smoking..i tried this so called E-Cigs..

1st i bought the Smoker Heaven box type E-Cig..seriously, don't buy this product. Expensive starter pack and tooooo many weakness..

Then i tried this..based on my fren's recommendation.

I bought the clearomizer with it..looks kinda cool with 11mg Nicotine Blueberry flavored liquid.

Yesterday..the EGo Carrying bag arrived..easier to take my BigVapor and my juices anywhere..

These are the BigVapor flavors that i find good and nice throat hit (all are with 11mg Nicotine):
-Banana
-Blueberry
-Redbull
-Vanilla (softer nicotine/throat hit feel)
-Coffee
-Black Tea
-Lemon Tea

Will try new flavors soon :)

Project Max R

2011-02-25T22:00:00.001-08:00

New Drift Machine...

2011-02-09T08:14:00.000-08:00

hi guys..

it's hv been a while since the last time i update this blog.

these are some photos of the progress of my new drift machine...

GT3071R turbo with special AR0.50 compressor housing (4inch inlet with bullet drills)

1100cc FIC injectors..

During the cylinder head build..

ARP Cyl Head Stud & Nut

Unorthodox Racing Lightweight Crank Pulley

Emm...Tomei assembly paste!

Last time i use a Tomei PONCAM..this time it's HKS Step 2 cams..

The HKS Cams are dialled in using Works Eng Cam Sprockets..

The Greddy Baffled Oil Sump is made with excellent quality in all aspects..it has served my for more than 3 years without fail.

Sand blasted Stock intake manifold..guess why i don't use the big JUN style or Greddy IM?

WORKS Throttle Body

Some WORKS Eng lightened acc pulleys

ORC twin plate clutch

Using a much tougher gearbox..we're afraid that SR gearbox won't stand a chance with the new torque figure..

Ceramic coated the exh pipes for better exh gas temp retention

A few photos of the engine bay 90% completed..Powdercoated cam cover with OnwardsMotorsports Signature Orange!

Love the Thai SARD Fuel Rail..looks really nice..it will be nicer with JUN style intake manifold though..ehhe..

I'm sticking with the Power FC at the moment..this explains the restrictive airflow i'm using (when i mean restrictive..i'm comparing with other system that uses MAP sensor like Haltech..)..however..this is not a Z32 AFM but it's a VQ45 AFM with 90mm diameter!! this should reduce the airflow restriction a bit..

Better fuel system..to comply with Formula Drift/FIA requirement

Custom local made super knuckle..

Rear handling setup..

My car 1st day out of the garage.. :)

Please pardon me for the uncle look and styling..hehe. i plan to settle with the engine tuning and drift testing first..then i'll go deep into bodykits and height slamming..

Rear fenders are rolled for temporary wheel clearance. Currently using Eagle Rev Spec RS02 245/40/18 tires at the back..with 18x9.5jj +22 offset Blitz Rims.

Found this OnePiece Anime keychain at Uptown Danau Kota a while ago..looks good down here :)

Still needs some amount of work to finish the exterior of this car..

More update soon......

sample promo video

2010-08-02T07:17:00.000-07:00

Featured Items For Sale!

2010-07-16T11:21:00.000-07:00

WTS Splitfire Spark Plug Coils SR20det,RB20det,RB26dett

Brand new

SR20det S13/S14 RM1800
SR20det S15 RM1800
RB20det RM2300
RB26dett RM2300

Contact 0136961808
Item Location: Puchong

WTS 17inch Rims: Advan RG,Impul NS01, Voltex

1.Rim Advan RG 17”x 8.5/9.5jj pcd114.3 5holes Offset +30 RM3k

Original advan rim...really lightweight!
Condition 100% new (Bought but never been used)

2.Rim Voltex 17” x 8/9jj pcd114.3 5holes Offset +35 RM2k

3.Rim Impul NS01 17” x 7.5/8.5jj Offset +35k RM2k

All 3 rims clear 4pot caliper
Call 0136961808
Item Location: Puchong

Selling Cheap Brand New Walkie Talkies!

2010-07-16T10:48:00.000-07:00

Disclaimer Notice for Motorola Walkie Talkies

Aluminium Racing Fuel Tank RM400 nego

2010-07-16T10:37:00.000-07:00

WTS Aluminium Racing Fuel Tank RM400 nego

Approximately around 15 to 20L capacity i think

Call me at 0136961808
Item in Puchong for viewing

Power Enterprise 850cc side feed inj RM1550

2010-07-16T10:35:00.001-07:00

WTS Power Enterprise 850cc side feed inj RM1550

Last time I bought brand new RM1900,used only for 6months.superb working condition

Can use for sr20det/sr20na (rwd & also fwd), subaru impreza

Contact 0136961808
Item location puchong

Tomei metal head gasket SR20det 1.2mm RM450

2010-07-16T10:32:00.000-07:00

WTS Tomei metal head gasket SR20det RM450

Bought last time brand new, used for 8 months

Superb condition

Thickness = 1.2mm (Compression ratio 8.5...similar to stock compression)
Bore = 87.5mm (Can be used with 86 and 87mm piston)

Contact 0136961808
Item location = Ampang-Bukit Antarabangsa

GT Wing (Side Carbon Fiber Design) RM250 nego

2010-07-16T10:29:00.001-07:00

New paint
Side panel carbon fiber design RM250 neg0

WTS Works Rim 17x8.5jj,pcd114.3,5holes,price drop RM1950-->RM1750

2010-07-16T09:39:00.001-07:00

WTS Works Rim 17x8.5jj,pcd114.3,5holes,price drop RM1950-->RM1750

17x8.5jj all 4pieces
Offset +35 I believe, not 100% sure.
Clear 4pot..also not sure, never tried fitting it to my car.

Got 1 really tiny hairline crack..but repaired already. U can view for ur self.
All 4pieces hv been restored..so everything in perfect condition/shape..no dent at all.
Super bling2 dish surface..

contact 0136961808
Item location = puchong

WTS 17inch Rims: Advan RG,Impul NS01, Voltex

2010-07-16T09:23:00.000-07:00

WTS 17inch Rims: Advan RG,Impul NS01, Voltex

1.Rim Advan RG 17”x 8.5/9.5jj pcd114.3 5holes Offset +30 RM3k

Original advan rim...really lightweight!
Condition 100% new (Bought but never been used)

2.Rim Voltex 17” x 8/9jj pcd114.3 5holes Offset +35 RM2k

3.Rim Impul NS01 17” x 7.5/8.5jj Offset +35k RM2k

All 3 rims clear 4pot caliper
Call 0136961808
Item Location: Puchong

3071r Setup for Max Response

2010-03-23T05:37:00.000-07:00

Steve Shadows (Zilvia.net)

In regards to the original thread questions regarding the GT3071R - keep these things in mind for your setup

1. Keep the stock IM (stock im or long runners and small plenum mean more VE efficency in the low end and mid range) Larger plenums only help when they are used to accomodate a very very large compressor and a higher rev range (ie 8500 -9500 setup)
2. Use a standard T04E housing for the compressor on the GT3071R - do not use the ported housing (it's a surge protector which you do not need if you are using a properly placed bypass or blow off valve - and the T04S houinsg should not be used unless you are trying to use the turbo for drag racing - more top end squeeze on ponies but at the cost of slight delay on - onset).
3. For response - Ask for a .48 Housing use 256 Cams - Crank the boost to 20 PSI - just another idea. I have seen this work amazingly week while still seeing 380 whp on a dyno dynamics (about 440 whp on a dynojet and about 420 on a dyna pack )

So the perfect turbo for a 2.0 liter SR for drifting and output IMO is a .48 Housing - custom machined with a T04E compressor housing custome fitted on a GT3071R - using a single scroll manifold with a large single bypass valve (PWR makes a great one) right in front of your throttle body ( which should be a Q45) and running 100 octane with 20 - 22 psi all the time - with a stock Nissan Intake Manifold - a Power FC or Haltech tuned on a steady state dyno.

Expect insanely fast spool up with excellent transient response (better than a .78 ar twin scroll) and the possibiliy to reach 400 WHP @ 25 PSI

Which one to choose between S13 redtop/blacktop (flat head) SR20det and S14/S15 (hump head, with intake NVCS) SR20det

2010-03-14T07:37:00.001-07:00

(This is answers to questions asked by mapler520)

TOPIC: Which one to choose between S13 redtop/blacktop (flat head) SR20det and S14/S15 (hump head, with intake NVCS) SR20det

The question:

Actually i am looking to change either sr20det or 1jz,but 1jz is lack of performance parts and the parts are getting rare and expensive,and then i look into sr20det and found that the response of sr20det is amazing,so bro if i am looking for sr20det halfcut,should i look for s13 blacktop or s14 blacktop?some people say that if going to mod the engine better take s13 sr20det,if for normal driving take s14 halfcut with vct system,they say its a bit hassle about the vct system,is that true?i think if i get sr20det i have to upgrade it to at least 300rwhp to push my a31,stock sr20det i dont think able to push my a31

The Answer:

It doesn't really matter actually if you choose between any of the models. They do make some difference when in stock mode. But when u upgrade to 300rwhp and above, things started to be different in common ways i.e.:

in stock form:
-SR20det redtop/blacktop S13 (flat head): no intake NVCS (nissan variable valve system), better cyl head intake/exh port design.

Engine designer calls the intake port design as High Entry or Fast Draft...becaust the intake port inlet sits high on the side of the cyl head and very min bend on the runner design. Therefore air/fuel mix can flow much faster into the combustion chamber with less restriction. T25 turbo. other than this everything basically are quite the same i.e. oil pump, cam spec and internals.

-SR20det blacktop S14 (hump head): with intake NVCS, new cyl head intake/exh port design (due to stricter emission regulation, nissan designers design it this way, it highly reduces NOx emission but cause slower intake air speed through the cyl head port and runner).

As opposed to the high flowing redtop cyl head, for s14 SR, the intake entry port sits low on the side of the cyl head. forcing the design of the runner to have tighter bend than redtop SR design. so flow is reduced to higher restriction of the bend. Turbo is T28 single ball bearing if i'm not mistaken..Other than this difference and NVCS, other things are quite the same with redtop SR.

in upgraded form:

letsay stage 1 (i mean like <310rwhp). common mods like GTR fuel pump, 550cc inj, fuel regulator, power FC/safc/haltech,maintain stock turbo or upgrade to a bit bigger like s15 dual ball bearing turbo, GT2530r (hks gtss), GT2871r (hks gtrs), boosting at 1 to 1.3bar, stage1 cams like HKS step 1 or tomei poncam (can maintain using intake NVCS for s14 SR engien), boost controller, FMIC, alum rad and etc.

or..stage 2 (like >310rwhp), all the common supporting mods, higher cc inj like 850 to 1000cc inj, standalone ECUs, ful engine rebuild+balancing, forged pistons n rods, all the arp studs, larger capacity turbo like GT3071r (hks 2835), GT3076r or GT30r (hks 3037), GT35 and so on...boosting > 1.3 bar (1.3 to 1.7 or even 1.9bar for some super monster dudes hehe)...stage 2 and above cams like Tomei procam/BC stage 2/hks step 2...cyl head full port n polish and etc.

so u see, when u go for stage 2 upgrades...normally engine builders/tuners will remove intake NVCS for s14 SR and use adj cam sprocket (making it the same like redtop/blacktop flat head SR. and then performance difference between the above mentioned cyl head design difference..i think hardly noticeable..maybe redtop/blacktop flat head SR can perform around 10 to 30% better than the more conservative s14/s15 cyl head.

therefore...u can choose which ever engine model that u want. or i can offer some advice for the selection:

1. if u want to maintain stock: u can choose the newer S14 or s15 SR because it got intake NVCS, and important fact that the engine is newer. i always remember advice from my friend kenji (nickname mist in DCM)...an engine health or to gage the life status of the engine is based on the mileage...low mileage means that he engine is young :) and high probability that the engine is healthy in everyway (mechanically, electrical...wiring n etc) all in good condition.

2. if u want to upgrade to stage 1: u can choose either flathead or s14/s15 SR

3. if u want to upgrade to stage 2 later and a full engine rebuild + full cyl head port n polish..i would personally choose a flat head SR :)..the reason being is..i want to get the most out of the cyl head performance if u know what i mean.

regards,
Jai Bluebird

Can SR20det stock internals withstand 300rwhp? Does SR20det hv enuf power to push an A31?

2010-03-13T17:03:00.000-08:00

Answeres to questions asked by mapler520.

TOPIC: Can SR20det internals withstand 300rwhp? Does SR20det hv enough power to push A31?

hi,

received ur sms, thanks again for reading my blog. i'm just sharing information basically, hope it can be useful to anyone who needs advice :)

ur question...can sr20det internals withstand 300rwhp and can it does it hv enuf power to push heavy a31 right?

1st question: can sr20det internals withstand 300rwhp?

yes it can. i think stock internals can withstand up to 320rwhp...with stock internals, if u hv 280 to 300 rwhp is just nice. however, forums in US/australia mentioned that it can hold more than 320 rwhp.

the fact is...with higher HP, engine get more stress..i.e. combustion pressure and temperature is higher, intake pressure/temp is higher, therefore, result to higher overall engine temperature, higher thermal stress to moving components, maybe higher vibration....and normally higher oil temperature and engine coolant temp and etc etc..another thing, engine tuning...i.e. knocking. if ur engine is pushing 300rwhp with a lot of excessive severe knocking, you will break ur internals eventually. i learn this the hard way...trust me.

all these stress if severe and not countered properly that makes and engine internal fails. therefore, if u want to go 300rwhp with stock internals..u need to make sure u are well equipped with the engine support system i.e.:

-proper engine cooling system: oil cooler, good radiator & fan, water pump
-proper engine lubricating system: oil pump, regular oil change, always monitor oil press and temp
-complete support modifications: fuel pump, fuel regulator, injector, intercooler, radiator
-tuning: get ur engine tuning right, u need to hv at least a piggyback ECU...full standalone ECU is the best...get a safe boost/engine knocking level

i.e. my previous setup with stock internal...2871r, power fc, 1.3bar boost, all the common support mods i.e. GTR fuel pump, denso 550cc inj, fuel regulator...safe knocking level...i whack the engine kaw2 every week on drift practice...in competition memang takde kesian punya whacking...for 1year..no problem at all. i always monitor oil pressure & temp (make sure oil press & temp normal especially at higher engine operating conditions), monitor water temp, exhaust temp & fuel pressure.

u need to know your engine limits for critical engine parameters:
-oil temp: 90degC normal condition, make sure < 120degC at extreme condition
-oil press: 3 to 4bar at normal engine operation, > 1bar at idling speed @ extreme condition (i.e. at 120degC oil temp)
-water temp: 90degC at normal cond, < 95 at extreme condition
-fuel press: just make sure optimum fuel pressure supply, be alert if ur fuel press drops abnormally while driving! something must be wrong if this happens..i.e. fuel pump/inj failure and etc.
-exh temp: 600 to 850degC at normal cond, make sure < 950degC at extreme condition. exh temp can be controlled with proper fuel mapping
-engine knocking: make sure u don't exceed K1 knocking (1 knocking every 10sec). knocking can be controller with proper ignition mapping

i think that's about it to hv a safe 300rwhp with stock internals.

possible factors that can fail a stock internal (or even forged internals if in too xtreme conditions):
-insufficient lubrication: simple...not enough lubricating oil, poor lubricating oil film thickness around moving engine components, especially on crank n rod bearings...they end up rubbing each other without oil at certain areas...build up heat...failure, metal deformation, damaged n etc.
-too high oil temp, cause oil properties to break...can't form proper oil film thickness
-too high water temp...will increase oil temp thus further increase metal temperatures i.e. piston, rod, crank, bearings, valve bridges temperatures..
-too high exh temp...normally caused by insufficient fuelling, always associated with knocking conditions, failure to piston and valves i.e. piston melted, cracked

2nd question: does it hv enuf power to push an A31?

YES, no problem at all.

if you see in terms of facts and figures....a 300rwhp and letsay 360 Nm torque sr20det can easily push a31...comparing to a 260rwhp RB25det or 300rwhp 1Jz...the numbers speak for themself :).

except that..the characteristic of all these engines are different having the fact that SR is 4cyl, RB and 1Jz 6cyl..diff piston designs, diff bore:stroke ratio and etc.

i believe...if u hv a 330rwhp SR20det in an A31 with a response setup..the car will be really quick, fun to drive and hv good handling due to better weight distribution of the lighter SR engine :)

in fact, there's a lot of SR powered A31s in japan/australia that are very successful in drift competitions...competing at par and sometimes better than high powered RBs and 1JZs powered A31s

hope this info is sufficient for now :)

p/s- how did you know about sr20det upgrade topic in my blog? :)

SR20det Upgrade Guide, Target: Optimize 1bar boost, achieve 270 to 300rwhp

2010-03-09T05:10:00.001-08:00

(These are answers to question asked by my friend Bidin)

TOPIC: SR20det Upgrade Guide, Target: Optimize 1bar boost, achieve 270 to 300rwhp

Pasal upgrade pulak, yg ko bleh buat untuk optimize 1 bar: (1bar turbo std ngan 1bar turbo upgrade lain tau performance dia, 1bar turbo yg upgrade maybe sama ngan 1.3bar turbo std sebab flow capacity dah lebih untuk tebo upgrade)

1. z32 afm, safc, throttle body SRna (60mm, besar sket dari std, tambah response), 3inch Turbo outlet pipe (tambah response sebab turbo outlet yg std to kecik sangat), maintain tebo std, up boost 1bar pakai boost controller atau tulang ikan = dah dapat rasa performance naik sikit

2. z32 afm, safc, throttle body SRna, 3inch Turbo outlet pipe, external wastegate (mcm tial, cam thailand pun bleh pakai), maintain tebo std = dapat rasa turbo response naik sangat cepat, bunyi pun sedap sket hehe

3. z32 afm, safc, throttle body SRna, 3inch Turbo outlet pipe, external wastegate, maintain tebo std, tomei poncam (tomei poncam ni cam upgrade stage 1, sesuai untuk response, tak lag sangat) = response sama tapi torque kaw2 naik!! ko bleh rasa G force kete ko bertambah

4. z32 afm, safc, throttle body SRna, 3inch Turbo outlet pipe, external wastegate, cam std, upgrade tebo (1bar) = mmg rasa kaw2 improve, cukup dah rasanya kalu ko buat ni

5. z32 afm, safc, throttle body SRna, 3inch Turbo outlet pipe, external wastegate, upgrade tebo (1bar) + tomei poncam = mmg rasa kaw2 improve sebab cam matching ngan turbo, cukup dah rasanya kalu ko buat ni.

6. macam no.1 atau no. 2 tapi pakai power FC = power naik, response naik walaupun pakai std turbo sebab boleh tune minyak ngan ignition optimum untuk 1bar

7. macam no. 3,4,5 tapi pakai power FC = confirm 300rwhp ke atas. (klu kete ko 300rwhp, power Din,mmg beza yg amat sgt,tak payah 400rwhp,300rwhp pun dah cukup sangat)

Klu ko bajet limited, bleh amek no. 2..kos minimum tapi rasa improvement

Klu nk pilih mana nak buat dulu antara:

1. power FC+turbo std+cam std
2. safc+upgrade turbo+cam std
3. safc+turbo std+tomei poncam

no. 2 atau 3 lagi murah and improvement lagi banyak, tapi tak proper sebab safc bleh tune minyak sahaja, ignition tak boleh, still rasa improvement, tapi tak optimum kat 1bar. power FC+turbo std+cam std ni proper ECU tapi improvement tak sebanyak no. 2 atau no.3.

upgrade turbo klu nk selamat kene upgrade injector sket. sbb tu org up turbo mesti kene pakai safc (inj besar tak bleh control klu pakai ecu std)
tapi upgrade cam, maintain turbo std tak payah upgrade injector. inj s15 harga dalam RM400, inj denso 550cc RM600

Pilihan turbo (garret):

1. GT2530 (atau nama HKS GTSS) - custom bikin tebo std ko kat tong RM1500 (klu seketul brand new RM3300), dia machine sket housing tebo ko kasi besar sket and masuk center cartridge GT2530 brand new, kipas turbo n compressor besar sket dari std (tak sure dia ada buat lagi tak tebo ni). Ni turbo paling response. Bleh boost sampai 1.5bar.
2. GT2871 (atau nama HKS GTRS) - tebo yg aku pakai kat bluebird aku. custom bikin tebo std ko kat tong RM2500 (klu seketul brand new RM3500). Turbo ni lag sikit (lag sikit je, untuk normal drive no hal) dari GT2530 tapi bila boost masuk kaw2. Bleh boost sampai 1.5bar.

Pilihan boost controller:

1. Greddy profec-B - boleh cari 2nd hand, harga dalam RM600, kat majalah US cakap ni boost controller paling response. jangan buang masa pakai boost controller lain macam Apexi AVCR, HKS EVC...aku dah try..tak best dan tak increase turbo response.
2. PS Powersport - aku pakai sekarang ni, harga dalam RM1380. memang mahal tapi ni lah boost controller paling dahsyat response yg aku penah rasa. aku teramat puas hati. aku boost 1.5bar mencanak2 sampai takleh nak kawal kereta.

Pakai tulang ikan mmg bleh naikkan boost smpai 1bar, tapi tulang ikan just naikkan boost saja, boost controller:
-naikkan boost
-control boost supaya stabil
-naikkan turbo response

Aku rasa ada 2,3 bengkel yg power buat SR...Naha Auto, KSR kat shah alam, Onwards Motorsport.

klu safc hantar tune mana2 bleh, GT auto, millenium motorsport atau Lan bukit beruntung.

Cause of exhaust explosion and observable flame at end of muffler (as written in Nismoclub technical section)

2010-02-05T05:24:00.000-08:00

saje nak share..ikut pengetahuan aku..ekzos letup2 ni sebab misfire atau ada unburnt hydrocarbon (HC)

1. misfire:
misfire ni satu perkara yang berlaku kalau bila pembakaran tak berlaku langsung atau tak lengkap at certain times...bleh jadi kat semua cylinder atau salah satu. maknanya letsay bila ada misfire kat cylinder no. 2, takde pembakaran kat power stroke (atau ignition stroke), jadi bila takde pembakaran...result dia waste fuel mixture...so waste fuel mixture ni akan keluar ikut exh valve masa exhaust stroke...disebabkan temperature kat exh valve, exh port dan exh pipe tinggi (lebih kurang 700 ke 850degC)...fuel mixture yang tak terbakar tu akan terbakar kat luar cylinder bile terdedah pada high temperature (instead of terbakar dalam cylinder masa power stroke). sebab tu lah bila waste fuel mix terbakar kat luar/dalam exh pipe...hasil dia meletup2 dan klu external combustion ni kuat..akan nampak api klua kat muffler!! walaupun gempak..tapi tak semestinya bagus :)

misfire ni ada beberapa faktor, banyak bergantung pada ignition timing & injection timing. selalunya ECU OEM atau aftermarket (macam emanage, power fc, haltech)...tuner akan adjust ignition timing sahaja dan biar fuel injection timing pada fix position. selalunya untuk regular gasoline SI (spark ignited) engine...fuel injection set at 300degCA BTDC (crank angle before top dead center). ignition timing plak varies from 1deg to 25degCA BTDC ikut pada speed dan load (throttle opening) engine tersebut.

so..faktor2 bleh jadi misfire:
-ignition timing tak tepat, mungkin terlampau advance atau terlampau retard..bleh jadi misfire.

contoh: at 5000rpm, WOT (wide open throttle/100% throttle opening)..injection timing= 300degCA BTDC, injector pulse width (berapa lama injector bukak/inject) = 0.65ms, ignition timing mesti di set dengan betul..supaya myk dan angin yg masuk masa Intake stroke tu akan terbakar sepenuhnya. mcm mana nak tau terbakar semua? masa tuning, kalau ada knock sensor dan AFR (air fuel ratio) meter (atau lambda sensor, wideband sensor macam Motec Lambda PRO, INNOVATE yg byk tuner mesia pakai) bleh detect combustion performance.

contoh: kalau case kat 5000rpm WOT tadi, masa tuning kita bleh adjust ignition timing...sampai cecah AFR yg tepat (biasanya 10% rich sikit dari stoichiometric ratio which is 14.7:1...nisbah air 14.7, minyak 1) dan melalui knock sensor...kita dengar knocking sikit je atau klu nak safe tuning, takde knocking. yg paling best...bila AFR dah tepat, n bila adj ign timing...adjust sampai ada knocking sikit..than kurangkan ign tu bawah sket dari knocking point..letsay kat 17degCA BTDC ign timing ada knocking, kurangkan sikit (-2deg) jadi 15degCA BTDC...so kat point ni takde knocking dan point ni diberi nama DBL (detonation border line atau sesetengah panggil Detonation Boundary Limit). sebab kat point yg ngam2 bawah knocking point ni..kita akan dapat max cyl pressure (bagus, lagi tinggi cyl pressure lagi bagus janji tak knocking sudah), optimum in cyl temperature...so sebab press tinggi dan temp sedap2 rasa ni = pembakaran lengkap, takde wastefuel, takde excess hydrocarbon..sume tebakar, yg keluar melalui exh valve masa exh stroke hanyalah exh gas+combustion product (air, HC, NOx, CO2, CO) yang tak berlebihan dan takkan terbakar kat luar cylinder.

2. Unburnt or excess hydrocarbon (HC):
Lebih kurang mcm explanation kat atas, pembakaran berlaku tapi tak lengkap atau tak habis…result = ada wastefuel, excess HC, so akan terbakar kat luar cylinder = meletup2 + api yg gempak kat hujung muffler
Punca2:
-ign timing tak tepat, atau injection timing tak tepat (tapi tuner jarang adj kat injection timing, selalunya set injection timing tetap kat satu value dan try adjust ign timing sampai dapat)
-supply myk byk sangat:
1. boleh jadi bila injector pulse width (atau fuel pulse width, FPW..mcm dlm motec panggil IJPU,injector pulse..ada yg panggil fuel quantity) set terlebih.
2. Fuel regulator set terlampau rich sangat (selalunya normal gasoline engine, dengan tuning ign timing yg tepat, fuel pressure sblom masuk engine tu range lebih kurang 3 to 3.4bar..takyah set tinggi sangat)
-ada bende2 yg rosak (kadang2 jadi)…mcm:
1. ECU, ign coil, injector, spark plug, wiring problem
2. crank angle sensor (klu bende ni gila ECU takkan dapat bacaan crank angle, ecu tak bleh tau kat mana piston TDC (top dead center) dan BDC (bottom dead center)…so ECU takkan bleh nak suruh injector dan ignition untuk inject dah bagi spark kat deg crank angle yg tepat
3. klu ada leaking dalam engine boleh jadi jugak…mcm kalu ada air masuk, air fuel mixture dah kacau, bila piston belobang atau blowby tinggi sangat (blowby ni leaking kat piston ring)

Kesimpulan:
Bila letup2…selalunya indicate yang pembakaran ada masalah sket. Tapi kekadang tak bleh elak…mcm klu yg pakai Antilag System untuk turbocharged engine (selalunya kete drag)..antilag ni mmg tuner saja2 retard ign timing kaw2 punya masa lift off throttle (masa kita angkat throttle) atau masa nak start drag race (kete tak jalan lagi tapi driver dah tekan minyak n maintain kat i.e. 5000rpm)..contoh kalau DBL point (mcm aku explain kat atas) kat ign timing = 17degCA BTDC, tapi klu antilag..ign timing set to 20degCA ATDC (after TDC, spark plug ignite masa power stroke, masa piston tengah turun bawah, jadi combustion start sangat lambat, menyebabkan pembakaran dan 60% combustion energy to keluar ikut exh valve = tolong pusingkan turbine blade lagi laju dan dengan kuat. So turbo akan sentiasa pusing untuk mengelakkan turbo lag daripada terjadi.

Pasal myk rich atau tak, mmg betul Mie SSS ckp myk rich (myk lebih) bleh sejukkan exh temp..memang AFR yg tepat pun 10% rich sket dari stoich ratio (baru bleh dapat max in cyl press and optimum temp). tapi jangan rich sangat. bila tune pakai wideband monitor insyaAllah tuner tu boleh tau banyak mana nak rich kan fuel :)

Just sharing knowledge n experience yg aku ada :mrgreen:
Ada apa2 soalan…anytime bleh Tanya aku  ..TQ

Heel n Toe Technique

2009-12-03T13:55:00.000-08:00

its good if u can brake n throttle with ur right foot during drifting.

for example if u drift at bukit jalil or mardi track..

the basic functions of foot brake during drifting are:

to slow down or to adjust vehicle speed when
-entering corner
-in tsuiso..especially when ur opponent slows down in front of u

u can either press the brake hard...ur car will slow down quite drastically..

or..if u tap it at the right time and with the correct amount of force..u can adjust ur vehicle position/drift line in the track..i.e. when u drift n tend to go into the outer line, u can tap the brake to make ur car go towards the inner line (especially when u are attacking front clipping points)

so, when drifting..if braking is required (like explained in the above conditions)...conventionally u need to lift ur foot off the throttle and press the brake thus causing the rpm to drop. so imagine when u finish braking n want to throttle again..u need to wait for the rpm to climb from low down to the correct rpm range that u want..this will cause:
-turbo lag for turbocharged cars...turbine can't spool fast enough due to low exhaust gas volume n speed at low rpm (the turbine needs a certain amount of exhaust gas for it to reach the efficient turbine speed...)..on the other hand...if u can keep the rpm high..ur turbine will keep on spooling at high speed n give u instantaneous spooling whenever u want it to.
-for NA no turbo lag..but still u need to wait a bit for the rpm to climb up from the low rpm range which will cost u precious msec in tsuiso..letsay ur front opponent has excellent throttle control..he will definitely exit corners faster than u do!

having said that..to keep on throttling (maintain high rpm even when applying brakes)...if u r not using left foot braking like zul does, u need to press brake with ur right toe n keep on throttling with ur right heel (a.k.a Heel n Toe technique)

when i spoke to faidzal alang last time, he mentioned that when he does rally driving with his satria..at some point he didn't lift off his throttle at all..he throttled all the way through the rally stage n apply left foot braking when required :twisted: ....

Onward Motorsports Super Drift Spec BLUEBIRD 910 SSS

2009-09-20T22:42:00.000-07:00

Driver: Jai (aka Jai 910, Jai Bluebird)

Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Current ride: OMS Super Drift Spec Bluebird 910 SSS powered with SR20det S14 with VTC engine

Sponsor: Maxoil, VTEN Oil, OMS, Aseong’s JDM Autoworks, Za Ekzos Race Fabrication, Jep Racing, Jaimarketplace

Specifications:

Drivetrain: Nismo 2way LSD, stock 5speed front gearbox, Exedy Racing clutch, Nismo lightweight flywheel,

Cooling System: GTR clutch fan, GTR intercooler, SARD Low temp thermostat

Fuel System: Aluminium fuel surgetank, custom aluminium fuel tank, OMS custom double entry fuel rail, SARD fuel press regulator, Power Enterprise 850cc injectors

Lubrication System: OMS custom high flow oil pump upgrade, Greddy oil cooler with Earls steel braided hoses

Engine-Cyl Block & Cranktrain: HKS 87mm forged pistons, Eagle forged con rods, ARP main stud, OMS fully balanced engine

Electronics: Apexi Power FC, PS Powersport Boost Controller, PS Powersport Brisk Spark Energizer II, Sard fuel press/EGT/boost meter, Apexi Oil press meter, Omori oil temp meter

[SOLD] Valvetrain: Tomei PROCAM 270deg for SR20det RM1400

2009-09-12T16:25:00.000-07:00

[SOLD]

Valvetrain: Used Tomei PROCAM 270deg for SR20det (S13, S14, S15)

Duration: IN & EX 270deg
Lift: IN & EX 12.5mm

Excellent condition

RM1400

Can ship anywhere around Malaysia

Call me!

[SOLD] Wastegate: Tial 38mm with tapak & outlet pipe RM700

2009-09-12T03:55:00.000-07:00

[SOLD]

Wastegate: Tial 38mm with tapak & outlet pipe RM700

Original Tial, taken our from my car (used for 8months)
Superb condition
Comes with outlet pipe = super screamer pipe (my special wastegate screaming formula)....nothing else can scream like this outlet pipe..i guarantee will scare everybody on the road hahaha

Wastegate: Tial 38mm with tapak & outlet pipe RM700

Original Tial, taken our from my car (used for 8months)
Superb condition
Comes with outlet pipe = super screamer pipe (my special wastegate screaming formula)....nothing else can scream like this outlet pipe..i guarantee will scare everybody on the road hahaha

Silvia Engine damper RM380

2009-09-12T03:44:00.000-07:00

Silvia Engine damper RM380

Fuel System: GTR Fuel Pump, RM250

2009-08-29T22:45:00.000-07:00

Photo coming soon...

Boost Controller: HKS EVC 6, RM1500

2009-08-28T10:07:00.000-07:00

Latest HKS EVC6 electronic boost controller for sale!!!
This is a used unit but looks like new!!!! Previous owner only use it for a few months. No scratch at all...
Only RM1500

High Boost Capability

250kPa/36PSI

Target Boost

User inputs target boost level, and the EVC automatically adjusts pressure to reach desired level.

Offset Function

If boost exceeds or does not achieve user’s target, boost pressure can be offset to reach desired level.

Map Correction Mode

Boost pressure can be fine tuned for: Throttle Position, RPM, Vehicle Speed, Throttle Position + RPM, or Throttle Position + Vehicle Speed.

Dual Boost Mode Settings

Separate A and B boost levels can be input independently from each other, and selected depending on driving conditions.

Scramble Boost Function

When the scramble boost trigger is depressed a preset boost increase will occur for a predetermined time (0-60seconds).
External Scramble Boost Trigger compatible.

Metric or SAE selectable monitoring

Users can choose during initial setup metric (kPa) or SAE (PSI) boost pressure measurement for monitoring.

Warning Function with Boost Drop Feature

A user preset warning level can be set where visual and audible alerts occur if the warning level is reached. Boost pressure can be preset to drop to a user defined level if pressure reaches warning level.

Analog and Digital Boost Monitoring

Boost pressure can be displayed in both an analog bar graph format and a digital numerical value.

Additional Digital Monitoring

Along with Boost Pressure two additional vehicle vitals can be monitored: Throttle Position, Engine RPM or Vehicle Speed.

Selectable Analog Monitoring

The digital bar graph can be set to monitor: Boost Pressure, Throttle Position, Engine RPM or Vehicle Speed.

After Image Function

Users can set the EVC to display the highest boost pressure reached for 3-seconds after the throttle has been released.

Peak Hold

The EVC will store to memory and keep displayed the maximum boost achieved.

Data Lock

To prevent accidental data changes from occurring, the EVC can be locked with a user defined four digit code.

Positive LCD display with LED Lighting

Black foreground with white background and LED lighting provides excellent visibility during both daytime and nighttime use.

Dimmer Function

Brightness of display can be adjusted for user comfort.

Rear Mounted Wiring harness

For a clean and simple installation the wiring harness connects to the back of the EVC unit.

Lubrication System: Greddy style oil sump, RM870

2009-08-26T01:08:00.000-07:00

Lubrication System: Greddy style oil sump, RM870
Superb high quality that you will not regret!!!

Wastegate: Thailand make, 40mm, RM770

2009-08-26T01:04:00.000-07:00

Wastegate Thailand make
40mm size
Price RM770

Tested at 1.9bar boost (400rwhp drift car)...performs excellently without any issues!!!

Wastegate: HKS 44mm, RM1350

2009-08-26T01:03:00.000-07:00

[SOLD] Boost Controller: Used HKS EVC 5, RM1000

2009-08-25T23:50:00.000-07:00

[SOLD]

Perfect condition, like new!!
Monitor screen got no scratch at all, all button labels still clear and visible like new!!
RM1000
Contact me!!

[SOLD] Racing Suit RM200

2009-07-22T06:36:00.001-07:00

[Item SOLD]

John Karting Racing Suit

Size L

RM200

Used 1 time only. Exactly like new...still "bau kedai!!!"

HKS Fuel Rail RM420

2009-07-21T05:53:00.001-07:00

Brand New HKS Style Fuel Rail
For SR20det S13 engine
High quality
Can use with stock intake manifold. You don't have to buy expensive intake manifold like Jun or Greddy design

RM420

Order: Place 50% Deposit

Delivery Time: 4 to 5 working days

Can ship anywhere around Malaysia

Price does not include shipping cost

Please contact me at 019-2400104

Location: Ampang – Bangi – Puchong